An Experience You’ll Never Forget in Khoton Lake

Ever wonder what it’s like to live like a nomad? To live so far beyond civilization, with only the vast landscape around you? Well, you’ve come to the right place. You’ve seen Beyond Expeditions' renowned Mongolian Yurt in the deep ends of Khatib, but now, you’ll get a glimpse into the life of a nomadic family in the Western region of Mongolia, Khoton Lake.

A Long Journey Ahead

Are we there yet?

A question you may find yourself asking your guide and driver one too many times as you journey through untouched terrains with only signs of tire marks or horse tracks everywhere. No signs of human life around you. Fret not, your driver, also known as the talented human GPS, will always find a way home. Trust me, he’s better than Google Maps or Waze! (Ask all of our past adventurers! We kid you not!)

Your eyes slowly lit up in excitement as your Russian MiniVan comes to a halt. Khoton Lake is right ahead. In the far distance, you could see a cluster of yurts, not more than five, and nothing but just snow that fills the land. You start to wonder, where on Earth exactly am i? It doesn't matter because you’re bound for one of the wildest experiences in your life.

The yurts, also commonly known as gers, is a term used by locals in Mongolia to describe their nomadic homes. The gers of nomadic families are similar to those you’ll see in tourist camps. However, what sets them apart is the raw, authentic, rustic feel that you’ll witness when staying with a nomadic family. And home….. for tonight…if you’re still figuring it out, will be an authentic Kazakh ger that a nomadic family has gladly welcomed us with open arms. And now it's time to meet our hosts!

A Hospitality like No Other

Meet Kuliomash, the head of the family (left) and Alioko, wife (right) , owners of the ger behind them.

So what is the arrangement like?

Your driver and guide will ask the head of the family if you are welcomed to visit, or stay for a night. In a land that is sparsely populated (you could count the number of people there with just your two hands), the families here are likely to welcome you and treat you like one of their own. The hospitality that you’ll receive will be unlike any other experience that you had ; they’re very giving, kind and sincere! It really touched our hearts seeing how little they have, yet so much to give. I’m pretty sure it’ll touch yours too.

Before you even get to marvel at your Kazakh ger(where you will be staying), the nomadic family will welcome you into their dining ger for a warm bowl of yak milk tea. The traditions here are slightly different too, as of that from Mongolian culture. Heavily influenced by their neighbouring country, Kazakhstan, the wife of the family, Alioko, will serve up a table full of sweet treats such as candies and chocolates as well as different variations of fresh dairy products - Yak Cheese, Yak Dried Yoghurt and Yak Butter Cheese - that is best spread on soft bread. You’ll never see the wife settle down, always on the move, always working. That intrigued me.

While the rest was savouring the light bites, I was curious as to what was keeping her busy. I peeked into our ger, and smiled. She was already busy working on setting up our ger, laying down layer by layer on the ground - animal hide, thick carpets and warm fuzzy blankets for a sleek finish. The husband, Kuliomash, on the other hand, will feed firewood into the furnace to ensure that the ger is kept warm. In some ways, the Kazakh ger is similar to a traditional Mongolian ger, some of the most obvious difference is the size of it, slightly larger, dome shaped and had vibrant tapestry colours.

The human minds are ever so curious. The experience has been unique thus far. Sipping on the warm yak milk tea in your hands, the guide managed to bridge the communication gap between you and the family. The long afternoon was spent exchanging questions and learning more about their life off the beaten path.

Life on the Off - Road

So what goes on in the daily lives of nomads?

You know the saying, the early bird catches the worm? It’s very much like that here. Waking up at the sight of dawn and sleeping early under the beautiful night sky full of stars. 

No Nespresso machine for your instant morning coffee to kick start the day, hot showers or sitting in front of your laptop replying to emails and attending zoom meetings here. The only connection you’ll have is between you and the nomadic families. They wake up early and tend to their farm animals - yaks, horses and cows. While the men are out herding the animals, the women will milk them (two to five times a day) to either preserve the milk and turn it into dried cheese or yoghurt or prepare them as tea for guests. In addition to that, the women will cook and care for the kids, sew clothes from scratch to prepare for the cold winter season. After a long day of herding the animals, the men will collect water from the lake to ensure there is enough water for drinking, cooking and cleaning. They will also chop some logs to ensure that throughout the night, there will be sufficient firewood to keep themselves warm.

So do they stay there forever?

Surprisingly, they don't! In fact, gers are considered to be their summer homes. During winter, they shift to a warmer environment, preferably a warm and cosy log cabin. We are considerably lucky to be staying in a ger, as they were one of the last few families in the area to move out.

Despite being in a rural environment with little to no connection with the outside world, they do have pickup trucks (or their horses) where they will load up their entire ger after successfully dismantling it in a matter of hours!  

That One Cold Night

It must be really freezing if even the nomads are shifting out to find warmer grounds. Only one way to find out! And indeed, it was! As the authentic gers are crafted with very simple materials, with no proper concrete floors or windproofing, temperatures can get as low as -50°C in winter. As the night draws in, even the fiery flames in our furnace eventually die out. Tucked in a sleeping bag with four layers of clothing, you’ll tend to choose to snuggle up with the other travellers you’re with. A true ger experience you’ll never forget.

Rise and shine. It’s not the sound of your alarm that is ringing but instead the bright morning sun rays that pierced through the tiny hole at the top of the umbrella - shaped ger that awakens you. Ah… warmth. Something so crucial for those who grew up in such tropical climates. As the sun rises, your stay at an authentic ger comes to an end. It is never goodbye, but see you soon, in hopes that you’ll return to Mongolia, a land so vast and will always have a special place in your hearts.

And if the cold isn’t for you, visit Mongolia in summer, the Land of the Blue Sky offers so much beauty across the various seasons in the year!

With that said, experiences like these don't come often. For some of us, it may even shift our perspective and/or views on life. It’s in moments like these that humbles you and gives you a deeper appreciation and sense of gratefulness for what you have at home! Living out of your comfort zone, even though it’s just for a night, has taught us so much. We, Beyond Expeditions, hope it does the same for you too! To go home richer in experience and sharing the beauty that Mongolia has to offer to fellow friends and families!

Article Written By: Dzul

Beyond Expeditions’ Adventure Content Writer since June 2022 and pursuing his Communications Degree in Singapore University of Social Science. He hopes to continue his knack for travel writing, sharing stories in hopes of inspiring the travel bug in his readers. He dabbles in photography on the sides and wants to incorporate beautiful visuals in his storytelling. A true fan of the outdoors, his thirst for adventure is second to none!